Unlocking Sherry's secrets

This masterclass unveiled the secrets of biological ageing, one of two ways Sherry ages in the bodega. The session detailed what exactly ‘flor’ is and how it gives Sherry its uniqueness. Guests learnt the science behind ‘flor’ and then, more rewardingly, enjoy a wide-ranging tasting of nine superb examples of Finos and Manzanillas, including some rare old wines, as well as, on-trend, ‘en rama’ styles too.

Despite seeing the presentation more times than most there is always something new that leaps out and sticks in our mind. This time it was how important 'rocío' is to keeping the flor alive, by feeding it air and keeping it active. Whilst winemakers want to minimise the impact upon the ‘flor’ - when drawing the next 'saca' and progressing the crideras through the solera - the slight disruption is actually beneficial.

There is much talk about how long flor lasts and when asked, César explained that this is something that will vary from bodega to bodega, depending on their own microclimates, including their location, how many times they extract (saca), humidity, their yeast strains... It's generally agreed that on average it will be up to 8-9-10 years. But you will find some Fino and Manzanilla with more age than this - which technically would make them amontillado but then as the Consejo say, they explain what the bodegas have in common, the producers will tell you what makes them different to each other.